In two early-medieval sources, Isidore of Seville’s Eytmologiae (written between the 6th and the 7th centuries) and Carolus Magnus’ Capitulare de Villis (written between the late 8th and early 9th centuries), we find the mention of a vegetable easily identifiable as kohlrabi, called napocaulis (literally, rutabaga cabbage) in the first source and ravacaulis (turnip cabbage, which has the same meaning and linguistic construction as kohlrabi) in the latter. In the Capitulare de Villis there is only a list of vegetables cultivated in the Carolingian territories (in addition to a series of instructions for the management of land, animal breeding, and other information related to the farm), among which are caulis and ravacaulis.
Isidore’s text, instead, is more interesting. Napocaulis, the author writes, is a compound word from napus, rutabaga, and caulis, cabbage, and Isidores compares its flavor to rutabaga. Unlike rutabaga, however, the relevant part (for its cultivation and consumption) is not the root but the stem. The text is not entirely clear. Isidore writes non in radice sed in thyrso conscendit ut caulis, which can be interpreted in two ways: the first is that, like cabbage, it grows not in the root but in the stem; the second is that, being a cabbage, it grows not in the root but in the stem. The meaning of this passage, however, does not change: this vegetable, essentially, recalls the taste of rutabaga or turnip (as well as, we add, its shape), but the part that is consumed is not the root but the stem.
The recipe we are preparing today, selected from Anthimus’ De Observatione Ciborum (6th century), calls for rutabaga, but we have decided to substitute it with the kohlrabi we have harvested from our garden. Anthimus’ book, halfway between a dietetic handbook and a cookbook, offers many possibilities for interpreting the recipes, provided that we understand the principles underlying his work and apply them to culinary practice. The instructions we find in De Observatione Ciborum must be read as loose guidelines for preparing dishes that were considered healthy in the late ancient and early medieval culture. The same principles can be applied to a wide range of recipes, making this source a fundamental guide to learning how to cook authentic historical dishes. Anthimus’ work is essential not only for the relationship between medicine and cooking, but also because it shows the point of transition between ancient cuisine and the tradition of the late Middle Ages, a passage completely seamless when examined from the unique perspective offered by De Observatione Ciborum.
Following the same principles that we used to interpret this recipe, there are many possibilities for preparing it as Anthimus intended. Instead of kohlrabi, we can use another vegetable such as turnip or cabbage, as well as the original rutabaga. Following the typical medieval tradition, we used a fatty cut of meat, but instead of pork chops, you can use others, such as lamb or beef, to taste. If you want to add more flavor to the dish, you can use spices like pepper, costus, and cloves, very commonly used in Anthimus’ recipes.
Instead of laredum, which is cured pork fatback, it is possible to add garum, still used in Anthimus’ time, which perfectly replaces the sapidity of the salted meat without giving the dish its typical high fat content, thus making it closer to an ancient Roman recipe, especially if we add only pepper and exclude cloves, which are absent in ancient dishes.
The best accompaniment for this stew is a puls, a dish with overcooked and mashed cereals that has been very popular in historical cuisine since the Antiquity. Anthimus uses rice, millet, and foxtail millet to make puls, but in Roman sources we also find wheat and spelt.
If you want to know more about Anthimus, check out De Observatione Ciborum. Early-medieval recipes at the court of the Franks. In the book, you find not only the translation of the text and a glossary, but also an introduction about the ingredients, methods, and cultural context that will help you recreate Anthimus’ recipes authentically. For more information about ancient food, we recommend reading Ancient Roman Cooking. Ingredients, Recipes, Sources. In addition, on Patreon you find the full translation of De Re Coquinaria and further translations of historical sources and articles about ancient and medieval recipes and dietetics.
If you are interested in late-medieval cooking, check out our books Libro de la Cocina. Medieval Tuscan Recipes Registrum and Coquine. A medieval cookbook.
For more historical recipes with herbs and vegetables, check out Early Italian Recipes. Vegetables, fruit, herbs, and flowers, which collects many recipes from the Antiquity to early Modern Era, accompanied by an introduction about vegetables in the history of Italian cooking in the cookbooks and their relationship with dietetic, philosophical, and religious practices. To learn abut the use of cereals throughout history, read our new book Early Italian Recipes. Cereals, bread, pasta, and pies.
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Ingredients
kohlrabi
pork ribs
cured pork fatback
vinegar
Method
Mince the pork fatback and render it in a pan, then add the pork ribs and cook for about an hour. If necessary, add a little water to prevent the ribs from burning.
Peel the kohlrabi and cut it into pieces. Mince the leaves separately. Add the kohlrabi and a bit of vinegar to the ribs and cook for half an hour. Add the leaves and cook for another half an hour, or until everything is cooked through. Serve the stew hot.
Original text from Isidore’s Etymologiae
Napocaulis ex duobus oleribus conpositum nomen habet, quia dum sit sapore napo similis, non in radice, sed in thyrso conscendit, ut caulis.
Translation
Napocaulis is a compound name derived from two vegetables, since its flavor is similar to rutabaga, but it grows not in the root but in the stem, like cabbage.
Original text from Anthimus’ De Observatione Ciborum
Napi boni sunt. Elixi in sale et oleo manducentur, sive cum carnibus vel laredo cocti ita, ut acetum pro sapore in coctura mittatur.
Translation
Rutabaga is good. Eat it simmered with salt and oil, or cooked with meat or laredum, adding vinegar as a flavor during the cooking.
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Early Italian Recipes. Cereals, bread, pasta, and pies
Libro de la Cocina by Anonimo Toscano. Medieval Tuscan Recipes
Early Italian Recipes. Vegetables, fruit, herbs, and flowers
De Observatione Ciborum by Anthimus. Early-medieval recipes at the court of the Franks.
Registrum Coquine by Johannes Bockenheim. A medieval cookbook
Ancient Roman Cooking. Ingredients, Sources, Recipes
Translations of Historical Sources
De Agri Cultura by Cato – first part (2nd century BCE)
De Re Coquinaria by Apicius (Ancient Rome)
Apicii Excerpta by Vinidarius (5th or 6th century)
De Observatione Ciborum by Anthimus (6th century)
Appendicula de Condituris Variis by Johannes Damascenus (8th or 9th century)
De Flore Dietarum (11th century)
Tractatus de Modo Preparandi et Condiendi Omnia Cibaria (13th or 14th century)
Liber de Coquina – first part (14th century)
Enseignemenz (14th century)
Opusculum de Saporibus by Mainus de Maineris (14th century)
Libro de la Cocina by Anonimo Toscano (14th century)
Anonimo Veneziano (14th century)
Registrum Coquine by Johannes von Bockenheim (15th century)
Libro de Arte Coquinaria by Maestro Martino – parts 1-4 (15th century)
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Tuscan Soup with Hen and Florence Fennel
The diet of the Franks – Celery Root and Beef Stew
Tuscan Fish Cakes – Salciccie di Pescio
Tuscan Stew with Pork Belly and Rutabaga
Pork and Onion Soup
Tuscan Radish Soup
The Diet of the Franks – Endive and Pork Jowl
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Renaissance Stuffed Cucumbers
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Pastero – Pork Pie
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Tripe
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Historical Italian Cooking 