The word asparagoi in Greek refers not only to the vegetable we know as asparagus, but also to other types of edible spring shoots, such as hop shoots. This information can be found in ancient and Renaissance sources, including Galen’s book De Alimentorum Facultatibus and Costanzo Felici’s letter about salads (16th century).
Interestingly, these vegetables not only share the same name, but also a series of cooking methods. A typical preparation is a salad with either raw or cooked shoots. According to Galen, in ancient times, the shoots were typically dressed with garum, vinegar, and olive oil. In the Middle Ages, however, cinnamon and sugar were also used, as noted in Michele Savonarola’s book on the properties of food (15th century). In Renaissance and early modern sources, such as Bartolomeo Scappi’s Opera (16th century) and Giacomo Castelvetro’s book on vegetables (17th century), the typical dressing for the simmered or fried shoots is salt, olive oil, and vinegar or lemon juice.
Today’s recipe was originally intended for asparagus, but we have adapted it for hop shoots, which are abundant in the fields near our home at this time of year. It is a very common substitution: according to historical sources, hop shoots were often used interchangeably with asparagus. These shoots grow wild in many places, on plains and hills, especially in humid areas near rivers, ditches, and canals. This year, due to heavy rains, hop plants have grown uncontrollably.
Unlike the flowers, which are characterized by a typical bitter taste, the shoots have a delicate and sweet flavor and are delicious when boiled and dressed in the simple ways we described earlier. They can also be used to make a frittata or risotto.
We selected this easy recipe from Anonimo Toscano’s Libro de la Cocina. It works perfectly as a side dish, but if you mix it with a few eggs, it makes for an incredible frittata. We have paired it with fish cakes from the same source, but it also goes well with fried meatballs or other dishes that include fish or meat. If you prefer, you may prepare it with either cultivated or wild asparagus, both of which have been used since ancient times, as we read in Cato’s De Agri Cultura and the Edict of Maximum Prices issued by Emperor Diocletian in the early 4th century.
The Libro de la Cocina, also known as Anonimo Toscano, is a complete and fascinating cookbook written in the Tuscan vernacular in the 14th century. It collects 175 recipes for all kinds of medieval dishes, including meat, fish, and vegetables, pies, and pasta. The author provides different variations for lean or fat plates, making this source an exhaustive and satisfying guide to recreate historical dishes and experiment with medieval preparations according to our taste, using ingredients that are mostly common and easy to find. Our translation of Anonimo Toscano’s Libro de la Cocina comes with an introduction about medieval cooking, basic methods, and ingredients, as well as notes to the text and a glossary.
For those who want to explore more about medieval food, we recommend checking out Registrum Coquine. A medieval cookbook and De Observatione Ciborum. Early-medieval recipes at the court of the Frank. You find further articles and translations of historical sources on our Patreon page.
If you are interested in historical vegetable recipes, we suggest taking a look at Early Italian Recipes. Vegetables, fruit, herbs, and flowers, which collects many recipes from the Antiquity to the early Modern Era. For those fascinated by ancient food, we recommend reading Ancient Roman Cooking. Ingredients, Recipes, Sources.
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Ingredients
hop shoots
½ onion
spices (white pepper, saffron)
olive oil
salt
Method
Simmer the hop shoots for 5 minutes. Slice the onion and grind the spices in the mortar. Heat the olive oil and sauté the onion, then add the hop shoots and cook them for a couple of minutes, adding two pinches of salt and the spices.
Original text
Togli li sparaci, e falli bollire; e quando sieno bulliti, ponli a cocere con oglio, cipolle, sale e çaffarano, e spetie trite, o sença.
Translation
Simmer the asparagus. When boiled, cook them with oil, onion, salt, and saffron, with or without ground spices.
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Books
Libro de la Cocina by Anonimo Toscano. Medieval Tuscan Recipes
Early Italian Recipes. Vegetables, fruit, herbs, and flowers
De Observatione Ciborum by Anthimus. Early-medieval recipes at the court of the Franks.
Registrum Coquine by Johannes Bockenheim. A medieval cookbook
Ancient Roman Cooking. Ingredients, Sources, Recipes
Translations of Historical Sources
De Agri Cultura by Cato – first part (2nd century BCE)
De Re Coquinaria by Apicius (Ancient Rome)
Apicii Excerpta by Vinidarius (5th or 6th century)
De Observatione Ciborum by Anthimus (6th century)
Appendicula de Condituris Variis by Johannes Damascenus (8th or 9th century)
De Flore Dietarum (11th century)
Tractatus de Modo Preparandi et Condiendi Omnia Cibaria (13th or 14th century)
Liber de Coquina – first part (14th century)
Enseignemenz (14th century)
Opusculum de Saporibus by Mainus de Maineris (14th century)
Libro de la Cocina by Anonimo Toscano (14th century)
Anonimo Veneziano (14th century)
Registrum Coquine by Johannes von Bockenheim (15th century)
Libro de Arte Coquinaria by Maestro Martino – parts 1-4 (15th century)
Recipes
Tuscan Fish Cakes – Salciccie di Pescio
Tuscan Stew with Pork Belly and Rutabaga
Pork and Onion Soup
Tuscan Radish Soup
The Diet of the Franks – Endive and Pork Jowl
Tuscan Fried Meatballs
The Diet of the Franks – Chicken Stew
Castagnazzi
Renaissance Stuffed Cucumbers
Pork Roast with Cherry Sauce
Renaissance Fried Tomatoes
Herbolata
The Diet of the Franks – Beef Stew
Fried Chicken Soup
Beef Roast with Garlic Sauce
Bread Soup
Salted Meat and Peas
Baghdadi Rice Cream
Chicken with White-Pepper Sauce – Piperatum Album
Indian Chickpeas and Meat
The Diet of the Franks – Pork Stew
Chestnut and Mushrooms
Lentils with Oregano and Watermint
Egyptian Bread with Pistachios and Almonds
Veal with Fennel-Flower Sauce
Pork Roast with Green Sauce
Eggs Poached in Wine
Brodium Theutonicum
Crispellae – Pancakes with Saffron and Honey
Brodium Sarracenium – Chicken Stew
Fava Beans and Pork
Erbe Minute – Meatballs with Herbs
Lettuce and Pork Soup
Zanzarelli – Egg and Cheese Soup
Turnip and Beef Soup for Servants
Cheese Pasta – Vivanda Bona
Gratonata – Chicken Stew
Chickpea Soup with Poached Eggs
Apple Fritters
Hippocras and Claretum – Mulled Wine
Pastero – Pork Pie
10th-century Goat Roast – A Langobard at the Court of the Byzantine Emperor
Romania – A Recipe Between Arabic and Italian Tradition – Medieval Chicken with Pomegranates
Emperor’s Fritters
Medieval Pizza – The Origin of Pizza
Roast Chicken with Salsa Camellina
Sweet Rice
Afrutum or Spumeum – 6th-century Byzantine recipe
A Medieval Breakfast – Wine, Carbonata, and Millet Bread
Salviata – Eggs and Sage
Tria di Vermicelli
Cabbage Soup
Frittelle Ubaldine – Pancakes with Flowers and Herbs
Saffron Cheesecake
Drunken Pork – Early Medieval Pork Stew
Medieval Monk’s Stuffed-Egg Soup
Apple Pie
Onion Soup
Gnocchi
Lentils and Mustard Greens
Chicken soup – Brodo Granato
Turnip Soup
Beans and Bacon – Black-Eyed Peas
Prawn Pie – Pastello de Gambari
Foxtail Millet Polenta and Spit-Roasted Goose
Beef Stew
Blancmange
Leek Soup
Quail Stew with Coconut
Chicken Pie
Ravioli
Almond Cream
Red Mullet Soup
Spit Roast Beef with Arugula Seeds
Walnut Bread
Lasagna
Tripe
Fried Fish
Roast Lamb with Green Sauce
Clams
Sweet and Sour Sardines
Trouts with Green Sauce
Lamb Stew
Quails with Sumac
Chicken with Fennel Flowers
Sea Bream
Historical Italian Cooking 