In De Re Coquinaria and Vinidarius’ Excerpta, a short collection of recipes written in the early Middle Ages and inspired by the ancient Roman cookbook, we find some recipes for ofellae. From the descriptions and methods, we know that the ofellae are made with beef, pork chops, and pork belly, but probably also with pieces or slices of mutton or lamb, suitable for the preparations described in the sources. We find the term ofella in other circumstances, such as in Cato’s De Agri Cultura, but in that case, the ofellae Puteolanae are a specific preparation for hams in which the whole pork legs are salted and kept in large vases.
In the past, we prepared a recipe for ofellae using beef; this time we are going to present a recipe for pork chops instead. The same recipe, with no significant changes in preparation, appears in both De Re Coquinaria and Excerpta. The ofellae are cooked with oenogarum, which is a typical sauce made of wine and garum, and then sprinkled with pepper. Vinidarius specifies that the oenogarum must be served with the ofellae.
There are a few recipes for oenogarum, in De Re Coquinaria as well as other sources, such as an interesting fragment by Gargilius Martialis, which explains how to obtain this sauce starting with the preparation of garum. Part of the recipe is similar to the one we have prepared in the past, but with some significant differences: Martialis adds plenty of spices and aromatic herbs, honey, and wine to his sauce. Other recipes appear in De Re Coquinaria, generally made with some herbs, spices, and liquids, such as olive oil and honey in addition to wine and garum. In essence, the basic principles are always the same: a sauce based on garum and wine, which is the kind that the author of De Re Coquinaria calls oenogarum simplex.
To dress our ofellae, we chose a recipe for an oenogarum for liver, which goes perfectly with the pork chops. Instead of thyme, you may use other herbs that the author adds to his recipes for oenogarum, such as rue, cilantro, or savory, but oregano would also be perfect for this combination of flavors. If you want, try this recipe with other meats, such as beef or lamb, but pork belly would also make an excellent dish.
Garum is an essential ingredient for this recipe, but if you do not have it, try a South-East Asian fish sauce, made along the same principles, ancient muria, or colatura di alici. Otherwise, you can always use salt instead, but your sauce would lose a lot of flavor. We preferred a balanced sauce with a part each of wine, olive oil, and garum, but feel free to change the proportions.
Since pepper is already present in the sauce, we did not sprinkle it on the ofellae. Adding more pepper would make it too spicy because the combination of pepper and lovage creates a strong flavor. However, feel free to adjust the seasoning to your liking.
For more information about ancient cuisine, we suggest reading our book Ancient Roman Cooking. Ingredients, Recipes, Sources. Moreover, the complete translation of De Re Coquinaria and Vinidarius’ Excerpta are available on Patreon, with further translations of ancient and medieval sources.
To know more about the passage between ancient and medieval cooking, check out our translation, commentary, and glossary of a beautiful 6th-century source, De Observatione Ciborum, written by the physician Anthimus to the king of the Franks Theuderic; if you are interested in late-medieval cuisine, we recommend Libro de la Cocina. Medieval Tuscan Recipes and Registrum Coquine. A medieval cookbook. If you are interested in recipes for vegetables from the Antiquity to the beginning of the Modern Era in Early Italian Recipes. Vegetables, fruit, herbs, and flowers available in English and Italian.
If you are interested in recipes with aromatic herbs from the Antiquity to the beginning of the Modern Era in Early Italian Recipes. Vegetables, fruit, herbs, and flowers available in English and Italian.
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Ingredients
pork chops
spices (black pepper, lovage)
fresh thyme
garum
red wine
olive oil
Method
Pound the pepper and lovage in the mortar, then add two tablespoons of garum, wine, olive oil, and thyme leaves. Cook the pork chops in a pan with a bit of oil. When they are almost cooked, add the sauce. Cook for a minute and serve with the sauce.
Original text – De Re Coquinaria
Aliter ofellas: in sartagine abundanti oenogaro. Piper asparges et inferes.
In ficato oenogarum: piper, thymum, ligusticum, liquamen, vinum modice, oleum.
Translation
Another recipe for ofellae: in a pan with plenty of oenogarum. Dust with pepper and serve.
Oenogarum for liver: pepper, thyme, lovage, garum, a little wine, oil.
Original text – Vinidarius
Ofellas assas. Exbromabis diligenter et in sartagine mittis. Friges inogaru. Postea simul cum ipsu inogaru inferes et piper aspargis.
Translation
Roasted ofellae. Debone [the ofellae] diligently and put them in a pan. Cook them with oenogarum. Serve with the same oenogarum, dusting with pepper.
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Libro de la Cocina by Anonimo Toscano. Medieval Tuscan Recipes
Early Italian Recipes. Vegetables, fruit, herbs, and flowers
De Observatione Ciborum by Anthimus. Early-medieval recipes at the court of the Franks.
Registrum Coquine by Johannes Bockenheim. A medieval cookbook
Ancient Roman Cooking. Ingredients, Sources, Recipes
Translations of Historical Sources
De Re Coquinaria by Apicius (Ancient Rome)
Apicii Excerpta by Vinidarius (5th or 6th century)
De Observatione Ciborum by Anthimus (6th century)
Appendicula de Condituris Variis by Johannes Damascenus (8th or 9th century)
De Flore Dietarum (11th century)
Tractatus de Modo Preparandi et Condiendi Omnia Cibaria (13th or 14th century)
Liber de Coquina – first part (14th century)
Enseignemenz (14th century)
Opusculum de Saporibus by Mainus de Maineris (14th century)
Libro de la Cocina by Anonimo Toscano (14th century)
Anonimo Veneziano (14th century)
Registrum Coquine by Johannes von Bockenheim (15th century)
Libro de Arte Coquinaria by Maestro Martino – parts 1-4 (15th century)
Recipes
Pork Stew with Red Wine
Chicken with Green Sauce
Tuna
Chicken with Dill – Pullus Anethatus
Religious Offering to Mars Silvanus
Rabbit
Gourds – Gustum de Cucurbitis
Roast Pheasant
Tyropatina – Honey Pudding
Pork Shank with Apician Sauce
The Diet of the Legionaries – Soup with Mutton and Beans
Chicken with Dill
Beef Roast with Quinces
Chard with Mustard
Religious Offering to Carna – Puls Fabacia
Pork Stuffed with Pasta – Porcellus Tractomelinus
Gilt-Head Sea Bream
Moretum – A Religious Offering to Cybele
Patina Versatilis
Aristophanes’ Roasted Birds
Pork Roast with Myrtle Berries
Cabbage Rolls
Pork Collar
Chicken with Taro
Honey and Millet Libum
Ham in Crust
Encytum
The diet of the ancient Germans
The diet of the Franks
Kandaulos
Wild Boar
Hypotrimma
Oysters and Clams
Peas
Ancient Sicilian Sea Bass
Pork Roast and Lentils with Sumac
Scampi
Cuttlefish and Eggs
Gustum de Praecoquis – Appetizer with Apricots
Octopus and Cucumber Salad
Copadia Agnina – Lamb Stew
Apothermum – Spelt Cakes
Pullus Parthicus – Roast Chicken
Tisana Barrica – Barley Soup
Beef Roast and Shallots
Staitites – Ancient Greek Sweet
Chicken Meatballs and Mashed Peas
Sweet Fritters – Dulcia Domestica
Columella’s Moretum and Hapalos Artos
Ancient Roman Frittata
A Saturnalia Recipe – Roast with Saffron Sauce
Muria – Ancestor of Colatura di Alici
Globi – Ancient Roman Sweet
The Diet of the Roman Legionaries – Buccellatum, Lardum, and Posca
How to make garum
Fig Sweet
Ancient Roman Gourd and Eggs
Ofella – Ancient Roman Steak
Fruit salads – Melon and Peaches
Isicia Marina – Shrimp Cakes and Cucumber Salad
Sala Cattabia – Snow and Posca
Copadia – Beef Stew
Puls Punica – Phoenician Dessert
Farcimina – Spelt and Meat Sausages
Ova Spongia ex Lacte – Sweet Omelettes
Flatbread and Chickpea Soup
Chicken stew
Salted Fish with Arugula Sauce
Savillum – Cheesecake
Pasta and Meatballs – Minutal Terentinum
Venison Stew with Spelt Puls
Veal with Allec Sauce – Ius in Elixam Allecatum
Isicia Omentata – Meatballs Wrapped in Caul Fat
Placenta – Honey Cheesecake
Pork Laureate – Porcellum Laureatum
Mashed Chestnuts
Poppy Seed Bread with Ancient Dry Yeast
Cured Olives and Epityrum
Historical Italian Cooking 